Flower buds - cooked. A soapy taste. The older flowers are best, they are rich in sugar. The flowers, harvested before the summer rains (which turn them bitter), have been used as a vegetable. Flowering stems - cooked. Harvested before the flowers open then roasted. Seed - cooked. It can be roasted and then ground into a powder and boiled. The tender crowns of the plants have been roasted and eaten in times of food shortage.The young leaves have been cooked as a flavouring in soups.
The leaves can be reduced into fibre and then made into cloth. To obtain the fibre, the terminal spine and a section of the back of the leaf are removed and pounded to free the fibre from the fleshy portion of the leaf. Another method of obtaining the fibre was to fold the leaves into sections about 10cm long. The leaves were then boiled with a small quantity of cedar ashes. When sufficiently cooked, the leaves were placed in a bowl or basket and cooled, then youths and young women would peel off the epidermis and chew the leaves, starting at one end and finishing at the other. After chewing the leaves, the fibres were separated, straightened out and hung to dry. When required for weaving, they would first be soaked in water to soften them. The whole leaf is sometimes split into sections and then tied together by square knots to make a rope. The leaf can be used as a paint brush. Leaf slivers are used, the end being pounded to reveal the fibres. The leaves have also been used to make small brushes for pottery decoration. The leaf is used in basket making. Small roots have been used in making baskets. They have been used to produce a red pattern in baskets. The leaves can be split and then woven into mats. The leaves can be split and used as a temporary string. The leaf fibre has been braided into ropes. The terminal spines have been used as needles. The dried leaves have been boiled with gum, hardened, ground into a powder then mixed with water and used to make baskets waterproof.The roots are rich in saponins and can be used crushed and then soaked in water to release the suds for use as a soap. It makes a good hair wash and can also be used on the body and for washing clothes. A soap can also be obtained from the leaves and stems.
Root cuttings in late winter or early spring. Lift in April/May and remove small buds from base of stem and rhizomes. Dip in dry wood ashes to stop any bleeding and plant in a sandy soil in pots in a greenhouse until established.Division of suckers in late spring. Larger divisions can be planted out direct into their permanent positions. We have found that it is best to pot up smaller divisions and grow them on in light shade in a greenhouse or cold frame until they are growing away well. Plant them out in the following spring.
Practical Plants is currently lacking information on propagation instructions of Yucca baccata. Help us fill in the blanks! Edit this page to add your knowledge.
Only hardy in the milder areas of Britain. Another report says that plants are hardy to at least -30°c. A plant at Kew (1992) has survived the last 3 winters outdoors[K]. This plant is still thriving in 1999, though it has not grown much and has not flowered[K]. Another plant is thriving in an open sunny position at Cambridge Botanical Gardens and must have experienced temperatures of at least -10°c, probably somewhat lower[K]. In the plants native environment, its flowers can only be pollinated by a certain species of moth. This moth cannot live in Britain and, if fruit and seed is required, hand pollination is necessary. This can be quite easily and successfully done using something like a small paint brush. Individual crowns are monocarpic, dying after flowering. However, the crown will usually produce a number of sideshoots before it dies and these will grow on to flower in later years. Plants in this genus are notably resistant to honey fungus.Members of this genus seem to be immune to the predations of rabbits
Problems, pests & diseases
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