Practical
Plants

Wisteria japonica

a deciduous member of the Wisteria genus in the family Leguminosae.

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Taxonomy and growth

Foliage
deciduous
Fertility
Insects
Flower type
hermaphrodite
Pollinators
Insects

Uses

Toxicity

Toxicity warning. The historical record reports a hazard for this plant. Do not use it to decide which parts are safe to eat or use medicinally.

This section contains historical Plants For A Future notes marked noncommercial.

The seed of all members of this genus is poisonous[5].

Edible uses

This section contains historical Plants For A Future notes marked noncommercial.

Seed - cooked[1]. A famine food, used when all else fails[4]. Some caution is advised, see the notes on toxicity at the top of the page. Young leaves - cooked[1]. A famine food, they are only used when all else fails[4].

Plant part
Leaves
Plant part
Seed

Ecology and functions

Ecosystem niche
Climber

Nitrogen fixer

Environment

Range
E. Asia - Japan, Korea.
Habitat
Clambering over cliffs and trees on woodland edges and in thickets in lowland, C. and S. Japan.
Light
full sun
Shade tolerance
no shade
Water
moderate
Hardiness
Zone 8+
Soil textures
sandy, loamy, clay
Soil pH
acid, neutral
Drainage
well drained
Tolerates Nutritionally Poor Soil
No
Drought
intolerant

Propagation

This section contains historical Plants For A Future notes marked noncommercial.

The seed does not exhibit any dormancy habits. It can be sown as soon as it is ripe in a cold frame and should germinate in the spring. Pre-soak stored seed for 24 hours in warm water and then sow in a greenhouse in early spring. The seed can also be sown in an outdoor seedbed in late spring[3]. Germination should take place in the first spring, though it can sometimes be delayed for another 12 months. Prick out the seedlings into individual pots when they are large enough to handle and grow them on in a cold frame for their first winter. Plant them out in late spring or early summer. Plants are very slow from seed and can take up to 20 years to come into flower[5]. Basal cuttings of side-shoots in early to mid summer in a frame[5]. Take the cuttings as soon as the new growth has hardened sufficiently, each cutting should have 2 - 3 leaves[7]. It can also help to remove a shallow slice of bark from the bottom 15mm of the cutting to expose extra cambium, since this will encourage more callusing and better rooting[7]. When kept in a mist frame with a bottom heat of 27 - 30°c, they will root within 4 weeks and produce well-established plants by the autumn[7]. Layering in spring. Simply lay any convenient long shoot along the ground and cover it with a shallow layer of soil. The shoot will readily produce roots at intervals along the stem. When these are well formed, the shoot can be divided up into a number of plants. These should be potted up and kept in a lightly shaded position in a greenhouse until well established and can then be planted out as required.

Cultivation

This section contains historical Plants For A Future notes marked noncommercial.

Prefers a good loamy soil in a sunny south or south-west facing position, sheltered from cold winds and from early morning sun on frosty mornings[2][5]. Plants can become chlorotic on alkaline soils[5]. A soil that is too rich results in excessive foliage at the expense of flowering[5]. This species is not hardy in the colder areas of the country[5]. There is some confusion over the correct name of this species, many authorities referring it to a separate genus as Millettia japonica (Sieb.&Zucc.)A.Gray.[7]. Plants can take a few years to settle down after planting out[6]. Too much shade or too rich a soil are normally the culprits, some form of root restriction can be beneficial[6]. A climbing plant, attaching itself to branches or whatever by twining in a clockwise direction[7]. Plants in this genus are notably susceptible to honey fungus[5]. This species has a symbiotic relationship with certain soil bacteria, these bacteria form nodules on the roots and fix atmospheric nitrogen. Some of this nitrogen is utilized by the growing plant but some can also be used by other plants growing nearby[5]. The plants also form a symbiotic relationship with a mycorrhizal fungus which makes more water, phosphorus and other minerals available to the plants[7].

References

  1. Tanaka. T. Tanaka's Cyclopaedia of Edible Plants of the World. Keigaku Publishing 1976-00-00

    ↩1↩2

  2. Bean. W. Trees and Shrubs Hardy in Great Britain. Vol 1 - 4 and Supplement. Murray 1981-00-00

    ↩

  3. ? The Plantsman. Vol. 6. 1984 - 1985. Royal Horticultural Society 1984-00-00

    ↩

  4. Kunkel. G. Plants for Human Consumption. Koeltz Scientific Books 1984-00-00 ISBN 3874292169

    ↩1↩2

  5. Huxley. A. The New RHS Dictionary of Gardening. 1992. MacMillan Press 1992-00-00 ISBN 0-333-47494-5

    ↩1↩2↩3↩4↩5↩6↩7↩8↩9

  6. Grey-Wilson. C. & Matthews. V. Gardening on Walls Collins 1983-00-00 ISBN 0-00-219220-0

    ↩1↩2

  7. Valder. P. Wisterias: a comprehensive guide. Florilegium. Australia. 1995-00-00 ISBN 0-646-22049-7

    ↩1↩2↩3↩4↩5↩6

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